Let me begin this post with a quote from a student who attended a retreat to India with me:
"I read and was told that India is a place of contradictions, yet you can never understand the enormity of that statement until you experience India. You don't visit India, you experience it." more...
For myself, there are few things in life that have caused me as much growth as my time in India. In some ways, I feel that a trip to India is both the easiest and fastest way to experience pure awareness; and I recommend such a trip to anyone who really wants to get 'bumped' out of their habitual ways of being. As the description of this blog alludes, other ways that I feel clearly bring one to awakening are vipassana meditation, mindful yoga, and conscious partnership; these three along with India have personally been my 'big four' catalysts. India is big, and there are countless 'goods' and 'bads' to experience - you might just be surprised which things fall into which categories. Before I begin with my personal recommendations of places to go, I would like to refer you to two resources that at times I have found quite helpful. They both are books:
Lonely Planet India is a nice book to have around if you need it, and at times you will. It includes places to stay, things to see and do, and all sorts of various other cultural information and recommendations.
From Here to Nirvana is a guide to the Ashrams of India, or spiritual centers. It was written a while ago, so some of the information is outdated, but at least you'll have enough information to be in the conversation of 'practice' - of what you're looking for, and what you're not.
Of course, where you will want to go in India will depend on what you hope to experience, but here is what my experience has been:
PLACES TO VISIT
Varanasi is my favorite city in India, and perhaps in the entire world. That said, many people absolutely hate Varanasi. I love it for many of the reasons that people love all sorts of things, and I also love it for all of the reasons so many people hate it. Varanasi can be really challenging at times, but it is worth it like no other place I've been.
Varanasi sits on the Ganges River, perhaps the holiest river in all the world. Pilgrims from all over India swarm to Varanasi to bathe in the Ganges. India's elderly come to Varanasi to die. Life is occurring on a grand scale in Varanasi, and for me, it's a refreshing relief to have all of life displayed so honestly. And honestly, Varanasi displays life because it doesn't have a choice; it is the place to truly live and to truly die. Note: I've also posted some India recommendations that might be helpful on Learning To Listen's Friends Page.
After Varanasi I enjoy two cities that are both wonderful, but very different: Pushkar in Rajasthan, and Rishikesh in the Himalayas. Rishikesh is home of the Rishis, or seers. Often Rishikesh is also referred to as the home of the yogis, and it is just that. Rishikesh has more Ashrams than perhaps anywhere in India. So if you're looking to live a 'monk-ish' sort of lifestyle for a little while, Rishikesh is a good place to do so, and to connect with other westerners of similar ilk. And, Rishikesh is beautiful.
Pushkar is a quaint little town in the middle of the desert. There is a beautiful lake and it's a pretty quite place compared to the rest of India; which if you've been there a month or so can be a very welcome respite. Lovers will love Pushkar only as lovers can love. Moving into southern India often brings up the topic of beaches. In my experience the coast on the Bay of Bengal side (eastern) has little to offer as far as sunning and swimming. However, on the Arabian Sea side (western), the beaches can be quite nice. Goa and Kerala have some of the nicest beaches in India, and from what I've heard, the beaches along the entire western coast are all pretty nice. The beach at Kovalam in Kerala is quite nice, but is often crowded because of it; but there are plenty of smaller options tucked nearby - ask around.
I haven't spent that much time in southern India, but when I was there I thought Mysore was a wonderful city with a really good variety of south India food. Also in the Mysore area is the famous Ashtanga Yoga teacher Pattbhi Jois, he's over ninety now, so if you're going to go see a living legend now is the time. Also in the south I really like Pondicherry, which was a French territory and has the remainders of its influence. Pondicherry also has a nice boardwalk which makes nighttime a wonderful time to be with the locals.
Now moving to India's southeastern coast we come to Chennai, formerly Madras. Chennai is a big city, but I mention it because it is also a cultural center, and if you want to study languages, primarily Sanskrit or Tamil, it's a great place to do so. Also in Chennai is the Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandarim, which is the teaching home of T.K.V. Desikachar. At the Mandarim you can also study Vedic Chanting, and you can do so authentically but in a western friendly atmosphere and way.
That's about it for what I would recommend. Now I would like to tell you what others have recommended to me, some of them tops on my own 'to do' India list. Here they are:
Hampi in the south. I've heard such good things about Hampi that I'm surprised I've never been. It's supposedly lush with backwater rivers and large rock formations - an inner paradise.
Darjeeling in the northeast. I want to go here because of the tea plantations, but also because of the elevation and views - it's supposed to be fantastic.
Calcutta in the east. Calcutta is another cultural center, and the home of one of my favorite poets Rabindranath Tagore. Calcutta also has a rich history of service, both Mother Teresa and the saint Ramakrishna lived in Calcutta. You may be more familiar with Ramakrishna's student Vivekananda who gave a historical speech in Chicago near the end of the 19th Century.
PRACTICE CENTERS
And now for practice centers. The shocking thing for anyone who first goes to India seeking formal practice is: there is very little. Yoga in India is primarily devotional, and to find good solid asana and meditation instruction can often be quite difficult. As I said above, if you want to study vinyasa yoga go to Mysore and study ashtanga. If you want to study asana geared towards the individual, go to Chennai. If you want to study Iyengar (alignment-based) yoga, then go to Pune outside of Mumbai.
If you want to study vipassana meditation, go to Bodhgaya in northeast India. In fact, the more I hear of solid practice options, the more I feel that the vipassana 'circut' in northeast India is most people's best bet for finding dharma (truth) practice. What little I know about the vipassana community in India is that they 'convene' primarily in the winter months - December through March, so try to be in Bodhgaya (BodhgayaRetreats.org) around that time.
Lastly, with all of those recommendations said, truly India's greatest gift is that you will be forced to let go of your plan(s). And when you do so, the absolutely correct thing will arrive in your lap. Fear wants it all mapped out; fear of not having a place to sleep, fear of wasting your time and money not having something planned, fear that you wont achieve what you want.
Prepare yes, but part of preparation is to be prepared to let go of everything; and India is just the place to do it. If you have the means to visit India, I recommend it more highly than any place I've ever been. And just like any good relationship, India is not designed to make you happy, it's designed to help you grow. I don't recommend going to India for a vacation - it will not be one. India is a place to sit face to face with the truth of who you are; it's not for everyone, but truly it is.
Enjoy your trip.
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